Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of Bristol downtown.
"I've noticed people concealing heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the World
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand vines with views of and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist cities remain greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those created in cities are a product of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a urban center," adds the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Back in the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous French grapes – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Across the City
The other members of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she returned to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated over 150 vines situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing wines. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing wine."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches
A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to install a fence on